- Travelled to Thailand's second city, Chiang Mai
- Gone to a Thai boxing match
- Got horribly lost at 2am
- Had my first poo (firm and pleasing to the eye)
- Rode on the back of a ladyboy's motorbike as she guided me home (not metaphorically)
- Rode on an elephant
- Trekked in monsoon conditions in the jungle
- Trekked through rice fields into a tribal village
- Resisted the urge to quote Platoon at every possible moment
- Relented to that urge - 'I'll do the whole fucking village, man!'
- Showered in a jungle waterfall
- Slept next to the waterfall on a mattress with less support than a string bra
- Sang and played guitar like the pathetically predictable traveller wanker I am
So I suppose you could say that my trip has now started in earnest. All of the above seem to fit snugly into any person's perception of what it is to be a crunchy, crispy backpacker and are certainly a world away from Bangkok's impression of a sexually deviant Blackpool - complete with busy hands and extra smelly bits. Chiang Mai is Thailand's second city and I arrived via the night bus after a fairly gruelling and entirely sleepless 10 hours. I kept my eyes closed almost all the way, but this was more about the shockingly dangerous driving I wanted to pretend wasn't happening than any attempt to actually rest.
It took me a good 6-7 hours to both unpack and unclench when I finally got to the hostel and there I met up with the group I was to be trekking through the jungle with for the next three days. A genuinely lovely bunch of people from Switzerland, Brazil, Holland, France and good ol' Blighty, we all agreed, after the briefing meeting, to meet up for a punchingly good time at the local Thai boxing ring after dinner. Although I'm clearly a lover, not a fighter, I have to say this too was super duper fun. Although quite brutal at times, there was clearly a lot of respect for one another in the ring and to add a little Thai authenticity (mental peculiarity) they brought four fighters into the ring at halftime and, after blindfolding them, set them on each other for a bout of wild haymaking. The ref even got a couple of sweet rights while he shoved them into the fray, which got the crowd going.
After this, and several extra strength Chang beers, a lot of the crew had disbanded and only four remained at a late night bar round the corner from the boxing. Conceding that they were bigger drinkers and later stay outers, I made the move to return to the hostel as we had to get up quite early for the trekking and it was already 2am. I got some drunken instructions shouted at me and started shuffling down the road in what I thought was the direction of the hostel. It only really took about five minutes before I realised I was completely lost.
There's something about total and utter and complete panic that taps into the primeval of a being. I felt my pupils dilating and my eyes widening and my complacent shuffling soon turned into frantic pacing. 'Ohmygod, ohmygod, ohmygod...' I gnashed over and over, with the occasional 'ohshit, ohshit, ohshit...' thrown in for good measure. The compulsion to live and survive had me cantering, rather than trotting now and my mind was awash with scenarios where I lived in Chiang Mai for many years and was known as the 'ohshit, ohshit, ohshit' man. The facts were as follows: I had no idea where I was, I didn't know the name of the hostel or even the street it was on and everything was closing around me. Chiang Mai was shutting down for the night, and, in a lot of ways, so was I.
Something itched the back of my brain. Something I knew but couldn't access because of the boozy fug that swam in my mind, looking for a late night station to buy a Kit-Kat from. Eventually it was only really the action of adjusting it that drew my attention to the camera that swung at my hip. Of course! I'd taken some cantankerous footage of the builders outside the hostel before I'd left for the night and maybe someone would recognise the road or building from this. I knew being a moody shit would come in useful at some point! I feverishly snatched the camera from it's case and clicked through the images until I came to the footage I'd been looking for. It wasn't great, but it was a start. Almost slavering with anticipation, I approached anyone and everyone with the camera and, wild-eyes bulging, pushed the images into people's blank faces. They looked as though they understood I was upset about something, but no-one looked as though they could help me. Finally I came upon a man in uniform and after presenting the short film to him he motioned to the corner and out of the shadows glided a short, pale, pretty ladyboy.
This certainly wasn't the first ladyboy I'd seen, but the first I'd had any sustained interaction with that wasn't some sort of obscene miming. She took a look at the footage and nodded confidently - she knew where it was and the man in uniform grunted that I should follow her. And off we went. It was strangely comforting to walk through the late night streets of Chiang Mai with Pop, as I discovered her name was. She had an air of elegance and certainty which made me feel like everything was going to be OK and never lost her cool throughout the constant jeers and cat-calling we endured from locals and tourists alike.
I lost the perpetual fear which I had worn like a prickly jacket for the last half hour and soon got into the groove of the rhythmic percussion Pop's high heels provided. I know the hostel was only a matter of minutes away from where we had started, but we walked for hours. I continued to remember small things which I thought might help - there was a waterfall opposite the road the hostel was on (not turned on at night) - there was a huge glass-fronted dentist nearby (the night shutters had come down) - it was near a temple (one of 250 in Chiang Mai) - but it wasn't until Pop took matters into her own hands (steady) that we made progress.
After two more hours we were back where we started. Pop seemed to have an idea though and clicked purposefully on until we arrived at another ladyboy's haunt. There was no doubting this person's original gender though - a long, heavy-featured and pale head with pronounced Adam's apple peered out through sleek black curtains of lank hair. When Pop spoke first, I realised how effeminate her voice actually was when her friend replied - like a man who had smoked rubble since the womb. The conversation resulted in us taking her motorbike and with me at the back and Pop very much in the driver's seat, we set off through the early morning streets of Chiang Mai. I couldn't help but smile as we passed the other prostitutes shouting out cheerfully at Pop, who returned their greetings with waves and incomprehensible words. At last I started to recognise landmarks and in what seemed like only minutes we were pulling up outside the hostel.
I paid Pop for her help and took a picture, which you can see at the top of the post. Definitely one of the most surreal and frightening things that has ever happened to me - but all the good things are, aren't they? This wasn't quite what I'd signed up for, but it had a happy ending and for that I was grateful. The sun was rising on the next day - the start of the trek - and I was back. Pop, this one's for you.
I couldn't fit everything into this post, so that's the Pop element of the title. Stay tuned for the snap and cankle elements - it'll be worth it!

